Climbing expeditions to highest peaks of Central Asia

Climbing expeditions to highest peaks of Central Asia - Somoni (Communism) & E. Korjenevskaya peaks

Somoni (Communism) & E. Korjenevskaya peaks

Duration – 29 days
Countries – Tajikistan
Time – July – August

E. Korjenevskaya Peak (7105 m) is one of 4 over-7000 meters summits in Pamir. It is located in territory of modern Tajikistan, in northern part of Academy of Science ridge, 13 km from Somoni (Communism) Peak. The top has been explored in 1910 by Russian geographer N. L. Korzhenevskiy and was named in sake of his wife Eugenia. The first ascension to the summit has been made along northern edge from Korzhenevskiy glacier on 22nd August of 1953 by expedition of Department of Sports of Association of Trade Unions under the command of A. Ugarov. The most safe and least difficult route of ascension begins from Moskvin glacier and passes along the Southern edge (V. Tsetlin's route, 1966). Base Camp located at 4200 m where Valter and Moskvin glaciers merge is the optimum starting point for climbing Somoni (Communism)(7495 m) and E. Korjenevskaya (7015 m) peaks.

Base Camp located at 4200 m where Valter and Moskvin glaciers merge is the optimum starting point for climbing Somoni (Communism)(7495 m) and E. Korjenevskaya (7015 m) peaks.

Climbing expeditions to highest peaks of Central Asia - Lenin Peak 7134 m

Lenin Peak 7134 m

Duration – 21(18) days
Countries – Kyrgyzstan (UzbekistanKyrgyzstan)
Time – July – August

Lenin Peak (7134m) is situated in the middle of Transalai ridge on the border of Kyrgyzstan andTajikistan.
The first ascension to Lenin Peak was made on September, 25th, 1928 by German climbers E. Allwein, E. Schneider and K. Wien, participants of complex expedition of Academy of sciences of the USSR.
The climate of Lenin peak is characterised by sharp contrasts. In the bottom part it is moderated, and in a high-mountainous zone becomes close to polar type. The summer – short, cool and even cold, lasts from June till August. Lenin peak is one of the most accessible among exceeding 7000m summits. Character of the ascension along classical route (through Razdelnaya Peak) does not demand application of high techniques of mountaineering, and weather conditions is mostly nice. But it is necessary to remember that this top exceeds 7000ì, and it demand from climbers good physical preparation, acclimatization and strong will.

Climbing expeditions to highest peaks of Central Asia - Khan-Tengri peak, 7010m

Khan-Tengri peak, 7010m

Best time to climbing: July – August
Duration – 21 days
Countries: Kyrgyzstan

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as 'The Heavenly Mountains'.
Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams.
We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Climbing expeditions to highest peaks of Central Asia - Muztag Ata peak 7546m

Muztag Ata peak 7546m

Duration – 27 days
Countries – KyrgyzstanChina

Muztag-Ata (7546m) is one of the highest and the most popular summits of Pamir. Its name is translated with Turkic as "the Father of ice slopes". It is the third on height top of Pamir after Kongur (7719m) and Kongurtjube (7595m). 16 glaciers go down from an ice dome of Muztag-Ata. The largest – Koksel - located on an East side of mountain, has length of 21 km. In the centre of the western slope of top there is a huge failure in which ice falls and feeds a glacier of Kartamak flowing down on this failure.
Accordingly at the left and to the right of a failure on top two "classical" routes rise. The first successful ascension on Muztag-Atu was carried out by the Soviet-Chinese expedition in 1956.
On July, 6th the big expedition headed by E.A.Beletsky and leaders of commands of K.K.Kuzmin and Shi Zanchunom, has reached by cars of base camp 4060 at a mountain foot. On July, 31st on top have ascended 19 Soviet and 12 Chinese climbers.

Climbing expeditions to highest peaks of Central Asia - Pobeda peak 7439m

Pobeda peak 7439m

Best time to climbing: July – August
Duration – 29 days 29 days
Countries – Kyrgyzstan

Pobeda Peak is located south of the ridge of Tengri Tau, covered by eternal snow in the mountain region of Tien Shan, as otherwise stated in the Heavenly Mountains - the largest mountains in the world. Pobeda Peak is a technically difficult mountain. First, it is one of mountains in the world that extends more than seven thousand meters. Secondly, the weather in the region is so unpredictable and rigorous. That's why it took a nick-name - "Treacherous Corner" as a peak meritorious. Even in summer it may burst a snowstorm like a clap of thunder with winds of 150 km / hrs and the visibility will be zero, and suddenly it will stops. In winter, this region is even more serious. Therefore in winter there is nothing to do for the Mountaineers. The most popular route to access to the Pobeda Peak, is the northern ridge of the peak Vaja Pshavela. The most difficult route is in the center of the north wall of Pobeda (as well as the ascent route was first performed in 1956 by a team of climbers of Abalakov VM). The most popular route (which was established by D. Medzmariashvili in 1961) is West (6918m) of Pobeda Peak, via the Dikiy Pass (5200m). We recommend that route, if even the tactics of ascent depends on the level of your experience and the conditions on the mountain. All aspects of the program can be adapted according to your preferences.

Climbing expeditions to highest peaks of Central Asia - Big walls of Karavshin

Big walls of Karavshin

Duration – 21 days*
Countries – Kyrgyzstan (Uzbekistan)
Time – July – September

Did you want to reach more and more new highs? If they are located in a paradise place! So we invite you to visit our country, the country on the edge of the Rocky Mountains. It is located in southwestern Kyrgyzstan, a mountainous region of Pamir-Alai, very similar to the rocky mountains of South American Patagonia, but the height of the rock walls of these mountains reach over 2000 m. Many rivers bring their purest water from these Rocky Mountains. There are the rivers like Laylak, Karavshin, Ak-Suu, Kara-Suu, Orta Chashma, Uponum and many others. This area is located in a picturesque mountain area. This means clean air and beautiful sceneries.

The unique peaks in the region of Ak Su - Karavshin are more complicated and therefore more attractive for climbing in these mountains. Everyone can choose his own his route according to his interests. And the fans of technically difficult climbs there are many interesting routes, from relatively simple to very complicated. If you want to test your strength, agility, flexibility and endurance, be sure you will find it. There are the picturesque Peaks like Ak-Su (5355m), Block (5299m), Iskander (5120m), Pyramidalnaya (5509m), Asan-Usan and 1000 years of Russia .