Khan-Tengri peak, 7010m

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as 'The Heavenly Mountains'.
Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams.
We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Best time to climbing: July – August

Duration – 21 days

Countries: Kyrgyzstan

Base Camp “South Inylchek”


Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation at hotel.
Day 2. Transfer Bishkek - Karkara (460 km), accommodation at the Camp.
Day 3. Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation to the ascension.
Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation to the ascension.
Days 6 - 15. Ascension days will be effected by ascent to the camps 1,2,3 and 4 at different altitudes and attack to the peak.
Days 16 - 17. Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 18. Descend to the BC.
Day 19. Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.
Day 20. Day in Bishkek.
Day 21. Transfer to the Airport, departure home.

Cost of full package for 2011 is 1400 Euros per person.

Full package includes:

  • Meeting/seeing-off at Airport in Bishkek.
  • Transfer Airport – Hotel - Airport in Bishkek.
  • Transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back.
  • Helicopter flight to BC and back.
  • Unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back.
  • Accommodation at hotels in Bishkek breakfast included.
  • Accommodation at the Karkara camp, full boarding.
  • Accommodation in double tents with full boarding at BC “South Inilchek“.
  • Free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“.
  • Consultancy service of local guide.
  • Consultancy of doctor.
  • Registration with local Rescue Party.
  • Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC.
  • Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service.
  • Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents.
  • Usage of fixed ropes on the route.
  • Change of air-flight and railway tickets.
  • Frontier zone permit.
  • Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed).

Cost of minimal package is: 800 Euros per person.

Minimal package includes:

  • Helicopter hop to BC and back with personal load up to 30kg included (overweight is charges separately at 3 euro per each extra kilo).
  • free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“.
  • consultancy service of local guide.
  • consultancy of doctor.
  • registration with local Rescue Party.
  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC.
  • Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service.
  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents.
  • usage of fixed ropes on the route.
  • change of air-flight and railway tickets.
  • frontier zone permit.
  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan.

The cost of these programs does not include:

  • The cost of Kyrgyz visa
  • International flight
  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary
  • Beverages and meals not included in main menu
  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
  • The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascending

Guide services, rent of tents for high camps or some services are available for the additional payment:

Price list for services in BC "South Inilchelek"
Services in BC Price
Muntain guide (for program) 1 client 1600 Euro
2 clients 900Euro per person
3 clients 750 Euro per person
Mountain porter (per 1 kg) BC (4000 m) - C1 (4200 m) 2 Euro*
C1 (4200 m) - C2 (5300 m) 8 Euro*
C2 (5300 m) - C3 (5700 m) 16 Euro*
Gas canister (230 ml) 5 Euro
Mountain tents rent 50 Euro per program
International call bysatellite (per minute) 3 Euro
Use of Internet 20 Euro per hour

*Note: cost of porter services must be calculated for both ascending and descending

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2011:

July 3.07.2011 10.07.2011 17.07.2011 24.07.2011 27.07.2011 31.07.2011
August 3.08.2011 6.08.2011 9.08.2011 13.08.2011 20.08.2011 27.08.2011

For ascending Khan Tengri Peak it would be better for you to have following equipment:

  • Garments, footwear - standart high altitude set.
  • Camp gear - tent (is advisablу to be of high-peak standart), sleeping bag, sleeping pad, gaas stove, plates and dishes.
  • Climbing gear - ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots.
  • High-altitude foodstuff.